Chania Part II (Out and About)

 Chania Part II (Out and About)

Minoos Street Market Spice Vendor

Chania Part I (see previous 28 Feb’25 Blog) saw us arrive in Chania, Crete.  Here, in Part II, our story continues.

The Saturday Market along Minoos Street boasts an impressive array of locally sourced goods: fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses, herbs, fish, eggs, honey, and, of course, olives and raki.  Raki, was a new discovery for us and quickly became a favorite.  This anise-flavored brandy, reminiscent of Italian Sambuca, was not only delicious but also a symbol of Cretan hospitality.  Often served gratis as a digestif, it is a gesture of thanks for coming.  A separate section of the market offers everything from hats and fanny packs to baby onesies.  Despite signs in Greek leaving us guessing their meanings, we managed to sample a variety of delicious items, including cheeses, before sitting down to enjoy succulent lamb kebabs paired with refreshing Alpha beer, a golden pale lager from Athens.

During this meal, I made a rather comical discovery.  My observation was simple, based on nothing more rigorous than a casual glance at an unused straw lying on our table.  The 21-letter Greek word printed on the straw translates to the eight-letter English word "reusable."  My lighthearted conclusion was that as a child, I would never win a spelling bee with a word like this!  Added to this was the thought that books translated from English to Greek must be significantly thicker than their English counterparts!  My guess is that even Plato might have chuckled.

Though our home-away had a kitchen, we rarely used it to prepare meals.  There were simply too many enticing eateries to sample.  For the few staples we needed, we frequented a nearby market where we got to know the owner, Natashia, a friendly Russian woman.  Talking with her son, Michele, who worked the register, we learned he had no interest in taking over the family business, much like my fictional character, Damien (refer to Chania Part I), who similarly had no desire to lead the life of a baker.   

         Later that day, we wandered along Akti Papanikoli, eventually arriving at a must-visit destination, Nea Chora Beach.  A ribbon of restaurants lines the coastline, and it was here that we

Sunset on Nea Chora Beach from the Volakas Tavern

stumbled upon the Volakas Fish Tavern and Restaurant, where our traditional Greek seafood dinner evolved into something more.  Dining by the sea offered not only a relaxed atmosphere but also warm hospitality, stunning views, and added conveniences, including umbrellas, lounge chairs, and even a shower for a quick rinse before retreating to the tavern. 

We took a table just off the road, and it wasn’t long before we met Manolis, the family patriarch; Giorgos, his son; and Yolanda, wife, mother, waitress, and overall glue of the operation.  Their conversation, hospitality, and outstanding service quickly won us over.  They offered fresh seafood expertly prepared and delicious, so much so that we found ourselves returning often.

A seafood dinner at Volakus Tavern is an experience that combines fresh flavors, coastal charm, and authentic Mediterranean taste, all accompanied by the rhythm of gentle waves.  Time it just right, and be treated to an incredible sunset, completely

A Dish That Had It All

free of charge.  Our meal began with a delicious plate of tzatziki, hummus, and olives, accompanied by warm pita bread, followed by an appetizer of kalamaraki (fried calamari), so large it begs to be shared, served hot and lightly battered.  For the main course, we selected from a variety of freshly caught seafood.  On offer were also grilled fish, such as sea bream and red snapper, perfectly seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and oregano.  Another delight was saganaki — crispy fried cheese paired with tender grilled squid; its natural sweetness only enhanced with a squeeze of lemon. 

 I opted for lobster pasta, a delicious combination of succulent lobster and rich tomato sauce, served

After Dinner Raki

over perfectly cooked spaghetti.  It was a tough choice, though, as I also craved the grilled octopus, tender and charred to perfection, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkled with oregano.  I postponed the octopus to another visit.  We paired our dishes with glasses of crisp Vin de Chania white wine, which further complemented the delicate flavors.  To add a perfect sweet finish to the meal, Maria Elena and I shared a refreshing, crispy layered baklava pastry, along with figs and grapes.

At Volakus Tavern, we quickly grew accustomed to a complimentary glass of raki at the end of each meal.  As proof of its authenticity, add ice to raki, and it instantly turns white from the presence of anise.  Unwilling to be fooled, we tested this phenomenon several times to be sure.  By the time we finished, we were full, tired, certainly a bit tipsy, and ready to

10 Minutes of Nibbling - 10 Euros

head back to Lithinon Street.  It was late by then, and being worn out by a day filled with indulgence, we opted for a taxi back.  Our young driver, commenting on our engaging, lively conversation, told us we were his best customers of the year.  I’m sure the Volakus Tavern had something to do with that.  If ever you find yourself strolling the seaside along Akti Papanikoli, be sure to stop by.  

On other occasions, we made the trek back on foot, and one particular journey stood out.  As we made our way along the maze of shorefronts 

Spa Treatment with a Reported Tickle

surrounding the harbor, we passed many shops in this tourist metropolis selling similar products.  However, of all those we explored, only one offered something unusual: water tanks to exfoliate your feet.  Surprisingly, to participate in this unconventional spa treatment, the tanks are augmented in a novel way.  For those bold enough to chance it, small Garra-rufa fish, approximately three inches in length, are used, which nibble away at dead skin cells, essentially cleaning your feet in the process.  While the treatment is reasonably priced at 10€ for 10 minutes, I opted to keep my feet dry.  Fish on my plate, yes, but not at my feet.  

To my surprise, Maria Elena, who is typically cautious and regularly enforces the "15-minute early rule" for doctor’s appointments and insists I not park where I shouldn’t, didn’t hesitate to dip her feet into the tank.  I was flabbergasted when she said she loved it, enjoying

both the sensation of nibbling fish and their results.  Maybe next time I’ll be brave enough to give it a try.

There would be many other discoveries in the days ahead.  Many of them, however, unlike the spa, would be enjoyed by all of us and not require a scintilla of courage.  One occurred while browsing the shops along Theotokopoulou Street.  It was there that we came across an inconspicuous establishment, marked by a dangling shingle, that announced we had arrived at Domenico Gelateria.

Domenico’s featured ice cream but with a novel twist, something different from anything we had previously experienced.  Differing from
mass-produced supermarket brands, often filled with unpronounceable artificial ingredients, Domenico’s creamy creations are hand-crafted fresh, right before your eyes, using only natural ingredients.  What made the

Preparing Another Ice Cream Roll-up

process so fascinating was the way the ice cream is crafted.

We watched as it was prepared on a large, square metal surface, similar to the teppan plates used in Japanese restaurants.  As I
watched my salted caramel treat come together, I was curious about how the ice cream froze so quickly, only to learn that the metal surfaces are cooled to sub-zero temperatures.  The process is fascinating to watch as servings firm up so quickly that they require super-skilled ice cream chefs.  I watched as my salted caramel mélange was tossed and folded with a wide-bladed scraper, forming it into a thin, flat sheet.  Too thin to scoop onto a cone, the ice cream is then rolled with the spatula.  Each delicate roll is then placed vertically into a cup.  The result is a treat that is as pleasing to the eyes as it is to the taste buds. 

Served Rolls of Hand-Made Ice Cream

It was during our trip to the remote Elafonisi Beach, renowned for its pink sand and crystal-clear waters, that we gained a deeper insight into Crete’s history.  Our discovery began as we boarded a bus for a trip along a route that wound through rugged mountainous terrain, only to plunge into constricted gorges or come perilously close to the edges of cliffs, absent any semblance of guardrails.  Our anxious journey was the price we paid for a few hours of relaxation, which included a refreshing plunge in the warm Mediterranean Sea, rather than an unexpected mountaintop free fall.  The twists and turns of the ride were exhilarating, all but for a sobering segment along the coast.  

As we moved along this smooth patch of terrain, we passed a small airport, its grounds showcasing a cluster of retired aircraft now serving as museum pieces, along with a few private aircraft.  It was there that our guide shared a poignant historical tidbit: this location, today the Maleme Airport and home to the Chania Aeroclub, was a key site in the Battle of Crete during World War II.  

On 21 May 1941, a German airborne campaign, codenamed Operation Mercury, began here.  The invasion encountered fierce resistance from the local population and British Allied forces who had

Battle of Crete Paratrooper Assault

advance intelligence of the attack, down to its location and timetable.  The battle was significant in that it was the first battle won exclusively by air forces, though at an extreme cost approaching Pyrrhic dimensions.  Most of the first wave of paratroopers were annihilated within minutes following their drop.  Additionally, a large number of planes were shot down or crash-landed from intense anti-aircraft fire.  The German parachutists suffered a devastating blow to the extent that Hitler resolved never to conduct a major airborne operation again.  Even with advanced warning of the attack, however, the Allies fell back, unable to halt the advance of the reinforced German forces.  Unfortunately, following an ever-expanding 12-day battle, Crete succumbed under the weight of the German war machine.  Crete was finally occupied, and by the end of the operations on 1 June 1941, the swastika waved over the island.

Our bus ride to the beach was our initiation to this WWII event, which, a few years following the battle, resulted in further carnage.  Afterwards, we learned of a massive follow-on atrocity while at dinner several days later at XANI, a traditional

Some Aftermath of the Battle

Cretan restaurant where I enjoyed slow-cooked lamb prepared in parchment paper, and Maria Elena had her new Chania favorite, braised lamb chops with moussaka.  On entering the narrow, table-lined street, I noticed that XANI shared the street with the Etz Hayyim Synagogue, the only synagogue in Crete today. 

Jewish communities in Crete had existed since the 4th and 3rd centuries BCE when Jews first established settlements on the island.  Its long history ended in 1944, during the NAZI occupation when plans called for the island’s Jewish community be rounded up and sent to Europe for extermination.  Arrests began in May 1944 when the imprisonment of the community began.  The days that followed saw

Steamship S.S. Tánaïs

soldiers enter the Etz Hayyim Synagogue and remove all religious artifacts, books, and community archives.  The Jewish cemetery was also destroyed at this time.

In June 1944, the community was taken to Heraklion, where they were imprisoned before boarding the steamship S.S. Tánaïs (Holywood), set to depart for Piraeus, Greece.  On the evening of 8 June 1944, the Tánaïs pulled away from the dock with 265 Jewish captives aboard.  The Tánaïs hadn’t been marked as a prisoner transport, which resulted in a British submarine sinking the ship the next morning.  The entire community perished, effectively marking the annihilation of the Jewish community on Crete, ending almost 2500 years of Jewish history there. 

Since 2010, the synagogue has been revived as a non-profit organization, absent official membership, and used to celebrate various Jewish holidays

Awaiting Our Synagogue Tour

and non-religious cultural events, including lectures, concerts, and exhibitions.  As the sole remaining testament to Jewish presence on the island, it remains a place of prayer, study, recollection, and reconciliation. 

Too soon, the hours and days passed, leading to the inevitable when we said goodbye to this paradise, a place that is much more than these brief glimpses can convey.  Here, at times at a traumatic price, the harmony of its varied cultures, its event-filled history, and natural beauty had become a haven for us, much like the easy-going life of Jürgen and his cluster of cats enjoy (see Chania Part I, Cat-man and the Chain).  We could imagine ourselves as four more cats in this tranquil mix, bringing the total to twelve.  Occasionally, like cats with a burst of morning energy, we’d set off, but even these spurts would be short-lived.  After a swim or a museum visit, our cat-like curiosity would wane as our paws became sore, giving way to a return to the calm of our quiet courtyard on Lithinon Street, where we would relax, just as Jürgen and his cats did.  It is easy to imagine indulging in such a lifestyle, where the quiet, unhurried rhythms of the day unfold at a gentle pace, absent any rush, with no need to do anything unless it suits us.  How simple, how serene, how perfect it would be.  Twelve cats?  It may be just the answer.

From That Rogue Tourist,

Paolo

 1. Hickman, Kennedy. "World War II: Battle of Crete." ThoughtCo, Apr. 5, 2023,                      thoughtco.com/world-war-ii-battle-of-crete-2361468.