Polpo alla Griglia (Grilled Octopus)

 Polpo alla Griglia
        (Grilled Octopus)                  

        In the James Bond universe, SPECTRE, first mentioned in 1962, stands for Special Executive for Counter-Intelligence, Terrorism, Revenge, and Extortion.  One of my favorite movie series, Bond films, features an elegant yet menacing logo: an octopus.  It’s a perfect emblem for the organization’s many-armed global influence, hidden control, and sinister ambitions.  One mind, many deadly arms wrapping around the globe, reaching into everything.  I’ve always assumed the logo shows only seven arms for the sake of symmetry, but that almost makes it creepier.  That choice was very deliberate as a metaphor for sprawling, sinister power.  Each arm can act independently, yet all are governed by a single calculating head.  Like an octopus lurking in the shadows, SPECTRE moves silently, strikes quickly, and disappears.  

    But not every cinematic octopus represents evil.  Rewind to another film, Cannery Row, one of Maria Elena’s favorites, which portrays skid row life in Monterey, California, circa the 1940s.  A sub-theme of this romantic comedy follows a frustrated marinebiologist, Eddie "Doc" Daniels, played by Nick Nolte.  Here, the octopus surfaces not as a symbol of menace but of curiosity and mystery.  Unlike Bond, Doc doesn’t chase spies or villains; he chases understanding, literally spending his days watching octopuses, hoping to discover something new.  He feels his life is going nowhere and yearns for recognition, hoping that a paper on some unknown detail of these strange creatures will bring him success and the attention of his peers.  

While he doesn’t find fame or scientific success, he does find greater understanding in his relationship with his love interest, Debra Winger’s character, Susy.  The octopuses, however, remain as unfathomable as ever — haunting, metallic, otherworldly.  From all the “sci-fi” movies I’ve seen, they could easily have originated off-planet, in some grey-metal murky world light-years away.  

Apparently, I’m not alone in that hunch as to their extraterrestrial origin.  A controversial 2018 paper speculated about “panspermia” ¹ — the idea that some of the building blocks of life may have formed in space before being carried to Earth on icy comets (i.e. that ancestors of the octopus may have come from space).  Although most scientists don’t accept this theory, many have half-seriously pointed out how uncannily alien octopuses seem.

An Icy Comet Bio Carrier?

And indeed, octopuses are full of science-fiction-level strangeness.  Since some researchers think these characteristics shouldn’t even be possible, this belief reinforces the idea that these animals are the closest thing we have to “extraterrestrials” on Earth.  Here are just a few mind-bending facts on the alien-like nature of octopuses, details the Doc failed to notice: ²

• The octopus genome is massive, with around 33,000 protein-coding genes, compared to about 20,000 in humans.

• Their genes are organized in a way that looks nothing like other animals.  They can rewrite parts of their RNA (basically alter how their proteins are made on the fly without changing their DNA).  This means they can rapidly adapt to new environments.  This capability is a level of adaptability almost unheard of in Earthly life.  Some researchers have described them as “genetically unique” in a manner more akin to science fiction than typical evolution.

• While they have a central brain, about two-thirds of their neurons aren’t in their brain; they’re distributed in their arms.  Each arm has its own semi-independent "mini-brain.” allowing each arm to independently sense, move, and even "taste" things.  Yes, they taste with their arms.  Their suckers allow them to taste whatever they touch. 

• Each arm can act almost independently, exploring, solving problems, even reacting after being severed as a defensive decoy to distract predators and make their escape.

• Some scientists suggest that an octopus is not one “mind” but eight semi-autonomous minds plus a central coordinator.

•  They have three hearts – two pump blood through the gills, and one pumps it through the rest of the body.  The central heart stops beating when they swim. 

• The blood they pump is blue, copper-based instead of iron-based, which helps them survive in cold, low-oxygen environments.

• Though colorblind, octopuses can camouflage themselves in perfect color, possibly because their skin can sense light and may even “see,” independent of their eyes.

• Their pupils are rectangular and rotate like a camera’s iris, giving them a unique visual perception of the world.

At a Calitri Fish Market

     Given this strange biology, it’s no wonder some people question whether such creatures could have evolved entirely on Earth.  Who knows, in the
imagination of films, Doc might still have a chance … might Darwin’s 1859 theory of evolution, long considered "settled science", still hold mysteries it hasn’t fully explained?

As intriguing as these facts and my musings may be, I don’t dwell on them long when I’m standing before octopuses on ice at one of the three pescherie (fish shops) in Calitri.  Our town, nestled halfway between both coasts, still gets the freshest catch each Monday, Wednesday, and Friday — a quiet reminder that even the most alien-seeming life can end up right here, in the middle of Italy, destined for someone’s dinner table.

A Floppy, Silly-putty Looking Octopus

    It is true that at first I wondered if they tasted like chicken, but I’m way past that now.  After all, we have eaten rattlesnake in Oklahoma, horse in Tuscany, bear in Maine, so why not find out if octopus tastes like chicken here in Calitri?  At that moment, standing in front of the fish counter, since larger animals on the food chain tend to prey on lower species, my only question wasn’t if I’d eat it, but how to prepare it.

Popular Octopus Salad

    In Italy, grilled octopus (polpo alla griglia) is a coastal classic, especially popular in southern regions such as Puglia, Sicily, and along the Amalfi Coast.  The hallmark of the Italian version is its simplicity:  tender octopus grilled until crisp on the outside, then drizzled with the finest extra-virgin olive oil you can find, lemon, garlic, and herbs.  Over time, we’ve gathered plenty of advice from locals and cooks alike.  Just back from Italy, we enjoyed octopus twice at home and had numerous octopus salads while eating out.  We’re hardly

Cleaned, Ready to Cook

experts, but here is Chef Paolo’s attempt to describe the process, Italian-style:

1. Buying & Cleaning

Look for an octopus that’s already cleaned, with no fishy smell and a firm texture.  Usually, the fishmonger handles the cleaning, but if not, it’s easy enough:

   Remove the beak (the hard bit in the center where the arms meet).

   Remove the eyes and internal organs.

   Rinse thoroughly under cold water until clean.

Simple, if a bit primal, but that’s half the fun of cooking something from the sea.

2. Tenderizing

    The first time we ate octopus was in Greece, and it was tough, almost like rubber.  That experience         put us off on it for years, until Italy redeemed it.  There, we learned the essential secret: tenderizing.

The 1, 2, 3 Dip

One of the best and easiest methods is a freezing trick.  Even if you buy it fresh, freeze the octopus for a day before cooking, then thaw it completely in the fridge.  Freezing helps break down the fibers naturally, giving you that tender bite without any fuss.

3. Cooking

    There are a few ways to cook octopus, but the most common method is boiling.

      Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

    Add aromatics like bay leaf, garlic, half a lemon, peppercorns, parsley  stems, salt, and/or a splash of vinegar.

      Reduce the heat to a simmer.

  Dip the octopus in and out of the hot water three times.  This may seem strange, but watch what happens: the legs curl up nicely, making it easier to fit in the pot.

Fully submerge and simmer gently for 45–60 minutes, depending on size, until a knife slides in easily with no resistance.

Remove from the water and let it cool slightly. 

By now, your kitchen will smell like the coast — a mix of lemon, herbs, and the deep mineral scent of the sea.

Add Seasonings and Plenty of Oil

4. Finishing (for added flavor and char)            

     This is where the transformation happens:

Pat the octopus dry (moisture prevents it from crisping later).

Cut into manageable pieces, usually separating the tentacles and the head section.

A Mediterranean-style grilled octopus marinade (for about 2-3 lbs of octopus) can be made as follows, and tossed in a bowl, giving the grilled octopus added depth:

Plenty of olive oil,

Seasonings (your choice):

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp fresh lemon juice (plus zest of 1 lemon)

2 tbsp red wine vinegar for extra acidity

2-3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tsp dried oregano (or 1 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped)

1 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped

1 small bay leaf, crushed

1 tbsp capers, rinsed and chopped

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Optional add-ins:

a few chopped Kalamata olives

a pinch of red pepper flakes for a little heat

1/2 tsp smoked paprika for subtle added flavor, depth and color

a drizzle of aged balsamic (common in northern regions for added sweetness)

Let the octopus marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour, then bring it to room  temperature 15-20 minutes before grilling.       

5. Grilling:

Heat the grill on high for about 10 minutes.  

Grill 3–4 minutes per side until lightly charred and crisp.

Bush occasionally with the leftover marinade as it cooks.

When done, drizzle with fresh olive oil and lemon juice, then sprinkle with parsley and flaky sea salt.

It should glisten — smoky, citrusy, and just a bit wild.  

Serving Paired with Risotto and Wine 
at Home in Calitri

6. Serving and Pairing:

    Optional sides include:

 A simple arugula and tomato salad

Grilled vegetables

Roasted potatoes or crusty bread to soak up the olive oil.

   And of course, enjoy along with bottomless glasses of refreshing crisp wine like Fiano di Avellino, Greco di Tufo, or La’Crema di Christi, all from the Campania region of southern Italy.

It may not taste like chicken, but once you’ve had polpo alla  griglia, you will never ask that question again.

From that Rogue Tourist,
Paolo

1.      Galactic Panspermia, Idan Ginsburg, Manasvi Lingam, and Abraham Loeb, Published 2018 November 19, The American Astronomical Society. 

2.      16 Wild Facts About Octopuses You Probably Didn’t Know, 31 March 2025, https://exploringanimals.com/wild-facts-about-octopuses-you-probably-didnt-know/