The Good, Bad and Ugly
  (Part I: Getting There)

The Earthy Street Scene Vibe of Naples

      Calitri, our home away, sits almost at the center of the Italian peninsula, perched on the eastern edge of Campania, one of Italy’s twenty regions.  And when I say ‘edge,’ I mean it quite literally.  From our windows, I look across to neighboring Basilicata, which lies just a short distance away.  Calitri’s prime location makes it the perfect base for excursions to either coast.  While I’ve previously shared our adventures in Bari on the east coast and beyond to Crete, this post focuses on our recent visit to always exciting Naples, just an hour and a half away to the west. 

Naples is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with its origin dating back to the 8th century BC.  Though it’s often thought of as quintessentially Italian, its roots are actually Greek.  It was founded by settlers from Cumae, the first Magna Graecia Greek colony, located approximately twelve miles northwest of Naples.  Its settlers named the city Neapolis, meaning “New City.”  With its strategic location on the Bay of Naples it quickly grew into a bustling metropolis.

Over its long history, Naples changed hands many times as the leading powers and empires shifted and vied to become its master.  In the 3rd century BC, Naples became part of the Roman Empire.  With the fall of Rome, the Medieval period saw Naples pass through the hands of various barbarian tribes, including the Ostrogoths and the Lombards.  In the 6th century, it came under Byzantine rule, continuing the tradition of serving the master of the moment.  By the 7th century, control shifted to the

The Royal Palace of Naples

Duchy of Naples (661-1137).  This pattern continued with a period of Norman (Normandy French) and later Angevin (French) rule, but by the 15th century, the Aragonese dynasty took control (1503-1715), marking the beginning of Spanish dominance in Naples.  Under Spanish rule, the city flourished as a center of Renaissance culture.  In the 18th century, the Bourbon (French) dynasty rose to power and established the Kingdom of Naples.  The Bourbon monarchs (1734-1860) embarked on ambitious architectural and infrastructural projects, including the construction of the Royal Palace of Naples and the expansion of the city’s fortifications.  However, political unrest and the upheaval of European wars destabilized the kingdom in the 19th century.

Bombs Drop on Naples in WW II

   The centuries of turmoil that followed a popular uprising led by Giuseppe Garibaldi in 1860 set the stage for the period of Italian unification, known as the Risorgimento.  This era saw Naples become part of the newly unified Kingdom of Italy under the House of Savoy.  Soon after, two world wars, World War II in particular, resulted in significant hardship.  It was a city caught in the midst of global conflict, inflicted with aerial bombing campaigns.  Far removed, we witnessed the lingering effects of this bombing while on an earlier visit to Naples when an unexploded WWII bomb was discovered, forcing us to cancel our plans to reach the port. 

Legend Says Pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito
Invented This Pizza for the Visit of
Queen Margherita in 1889

Today, Naples thrives as a vibrant cultural hub, underpinned by its rich history, art, music (it’s the birthplace of opera), and cuisine (most famously, Pizza Margherita).  The city remains a vibrant tapestry of historical significance and charm, blending ancient ruins with artistic traditions and a deeply rooted sense of local pride.

Though we’re still getting acquainted with this lively city, one thing is clear: despite the many challenges it has faced throughout history and continues to face today, including the ever-present threat of Mount Vesuvius, its people are known for their warmth, pride, and zest for life.  Naples feels distinctly different, far removed and more earthy than polished Rome or the sophistication of Florence and Milan.  Like a root-bound plant, the people of Naples are deeply embedded in crowded neighborhoods, such as the Spanish Quarter, sometimes described as rough around the edges.  Naples continues to grapple with modern challenges, including economic difficulties, menacing earthquakes, and organized crime.  The city has earned a 'love-it'-or-'hate-it' reputation, polarizing yet enduring.  But through it all, Naples captivates the hearts of those who visit, drawing them in with its unyielding spirit and infectious energy.

Our  View Toward Piazza Bovi 

Along with venturesome friends Adrienne and Bob, we were staying at Palazzo Depretis, a bed and breakfast in the heart of this historic city.  It was an interesting place, located high above Via Agostino in a multi-story building that also housed professional offices and private residences.  Initially, we used a coin-operated elevator to reach the upper floors, but after checking in, we were provided  a telecommando (remote control) for all future trips.  Once inside the Palazzo Depretis, we were greeted by something unexpected.  I’d describe it as a video concierge, basically a live person, although remote from our location.  This was something unexpected, though not surprising.  It was in Italy, after all, that we first saw chips on credit cards well before they were introduced in the US.  This novel concierge, who likely served multiple

sites, proved an innovative touch, allowing guests to remotely coordinate plans, make reservations, or  

Bob Steps into Naples

 even request a taxi.  She may have also triggered the arrival of our friendly hostess, who helped us settle into our rooms, making us feel at home in this fascinating blend of old-world charm and modern convenience.

Relieved of our luggage, we found ourselves on the streets by mid-afternoon.  The energy of this city, fueled by its rich culture and the liveliness of its residents, was palpable.  Only footsteps from the step-through door onto the street (see photo), patrons of coffee bars and streetside restaurants spilled out onto the pavement.  A group of police officers in their finest regalia, adorned with sashes, epaulets, and gleaming hat badges, mingled on the street ahead, leisurely sipping their afternoon espressos.  

Curious, I approached an especially attractive officer and asked her why there were so many of them and what had brought them here, certainly not a crime.  Her questioning look softened into a smile of understanding as she explained that it's common for Italians to take a break during the afternoon to enjoy a strong espresso.  She gestured toward a nearby police administrative center, or Questura, a term I was familiar with from Italian TV shows like Zen, and said that’s where they worked. I couldn’t help but wonder whether it was the need for a jolt of caffeine, the chance to socialize, or both that drew her there.

Tight-knit Neighborhoods Indeed

    Now, I’m no anthropologist or sociologist, but it was clear to me that Neapolitans, like this officer, are cut from a different cloth.  Renowned for their resilience, the people of Naples maintain a deep connection to their cultural heritage and take immense pride in their city, its rich history, and its cherished traditions.  From the famous pizzaiolos (pizza makers) to the musical tradition of Neapolitan songs, to the historical significance of the city itself, these people truly embrace their past.  Their saying: "Vedi Napoli e poi muori" ("See Naples and then die"), is a reflection of that pride. 

Masterful Nativity Scene

Centuries of hardship have forged tightly knit families and neighborhoods, shaping a sense of belonging and mutual support.  They tend to wear their emotions on their sleeves, whether it's joy, frustration, or excitement, and from those sleeves, their hands often speak loudly with hand movements (this Video, post an ad, offers a hint).  In fact, these expressive gestures can sometimes speak as loudly as their words.

Then there is their unique brand of Italian dialect.  We experienced it long before we visited the city, during a play in Calitri featuring Neapolitan actors. Even the local Calitrani sitting with us in the audience couldn’t understand them.  In defense of the actors, the Calitrani dialect is just as incomprehensible.  Still, we all managed to follow along and could sense when to laugh.  Hospitality is a core part of their identity, and they take pride in making visitors feel at home. That may explain why this officer took the time to soothe my curiosity.

Where I Could Have Joined the Party

    I’d have enjoyed staying longer, but soon we were back on our route to the Spaccanapoli area.  Spaccanapoli, meaning "Naples Splitter," refers to the sequence of narrow streets that slice through the historic center of Naples.  It's a vibrant maze of crowded, colorful alleys filled with shops, restaurants, seafood markets, and plenty of tourists.  The area is also home to famous artisan workshops on Via San Gregorio Armeno, known worldwide for their handcrafted presepi (nativity scenes).  These dioramas of the Holy Family have their roots in the first-ever nativity scene staged in a cave by St. Francis of Assisi in 1223 in the nearby town of Greccio.¹   

The 1753 Veiled Christ by
Giuseppe Sanmartino

We passed through Piazza Bovi, then turned up Via Mezzocannone until it merged with Vico San Domenico Maggiore.  As we continued, we passed the L’Università degli Studi di Napoli “L’Orientale”, a school of Sinology and Oriental Studies.  Outside, three young people were handing out flyers, and I took one, only to discover it was an invitation to join the Communist Party.  As someone from a country built on capitalism, I wasn’t interested and quickly returned it.  In hindsight, I should have been forewarned, considering the entire façade of a nearby building was covered in an enormous mural of Che Guevara and Fidel Castro.

Neapolitan Street Art

Arriving at Via Francesco de Sanctis, we turned right and passed the Museo Cappella San Serveno, home to the famous sculpture The Veiled Christ, where a gauze-like marble veil delicately shrouds the figure.  We tried to enter, but its popularity meant that without tickets purchased well in advance, there was no chance to see this masterpiece.  Throughout our entire route, it was evident that artistic expression in Naples continues to thrive.  Though not enshrined in its many museums and churches, and absent any need for a ticket, there were spray-can expressions everywhere

Via Nilo Statue of the Nile God

     This phenomenon appears to have spread throughout Italy, including Rome.  There in Rome’s charming Trastevere neighborhood, buildings have been vandalized by these phantom aerosol sprayers.  These “street artists,” if they deserve such a title, may not realize how their graffiti takes from the artistry of their architectural heritage, where Angevin Gothic coexists with the purest Neapolitan

Baroque, giving the area a rundown feel and putting visitors off from strolling its streets.  But this may only add to the fascinating, gritty vibe of the area, affixing a backdrop to the chaos of scooting Vespas, the melodic appeal of street-side vendors, and dripping overhead laundry you hadn’t imagined.  

After a turn onto Via Nilo, we arrived on Via dei Tribunali, a major east-west thoroughfare in this historic seven-street maze known as Spaccanapoli.  We had limited objectives for this, the trip’s first deep foray into Naples: a visit to Napoli Sotterranea followed by an afternoon lunch at a place that as yet remained: To Be Determined. 

TO BE CONTINUED

From That Rogue Tourist,
Paolo

1.                  Greccio: The Italian village that's Home to the World's First Nativity Scene, https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20231219-greccio-the-italian-village-thats-home-to-the-worlds-first-nativity-scene

RELATED VIDEOS:

Palazzo Depretis on You Tube:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHECIP3ONtU

ZEN BBC TV Trailer:   https://youtu.be/YEpuanSa8-I?si=l8-WiEq1lJLER0YG 

Italian Hand Gestures (after ad): https://youtu.be/WwZ6NTV1nRc?si=b14WYm81I7MaYkEs

Graffiti along Via Mezzzocannone: https://youtube.com/shorts/7DhUWB76eyU?si=ooTlVa-WayvOVwx1