Harborside Enchantment

 

Harborside Enchantment

Where do you think you might be when 

A Closeup of our Tranquility Base 
Marine di Corricella

you venture to your mailbox, fetch your mail, and notice that the postal code is 80079?  Is your first thought ‘return to sender’?  That zip code is definitely not from the USA.  If you recognize that this code is from the city of Stremin, currently from that much in the news country of Ukraine, you would not only be correct but most definitely may have missed out on a career as a quiz show champion.  If you happened to live in Stremin, you might want to move 12 degrees longitude to the west to a more sedate and far safer address with the same postal code.  Welcome to the Island of Procida. 

Procida guards the entrance to the Gulf of Naples and lies in the shadow of that ominous iconic landmark that today threatens over three million people, Vesuvius.  This tiny island has been a long time becoming what it is today.  It owes its

Our Extinct Volcano - Mount Vulture

formation to the eruptions of four volcanoes, now submerged.  Like Mount Vulture, the prominent landmark outside our Calitri windows, it thankfully remains dormant.  Yet it was the eruptions of Vulture, millions of years ago, that gave rise to a viticultural terroir that today accounts for the celebrated DOC Aglianico del Vulture wine.^[1] 

The Mycenaeans, who hadn’t the luxury of journeying by ferry as today’s visitors do, were early Procida settlers.  Their arrival is believed to have occurred sometime between 1600 and 1400 BC, well before the broader Magna Graecia migrations would begin.  These first-to-arrive Greeks came from mainland Greece.  Much later, Greek settlers came to Procida from the nearby mainland colony of Cumae.  Others would migrate from the neighboring island of Ischia.  Fast forwarding through time, Procida became a fashionable resort for well-to-do patrician-class Romans.^[2]   These days, with the convenience of a short ferry ride, this underrated getaway has evolved into an alluring and timeless retreat when contrasted with more renowned and nearby Ischia and the frenzied mayhem of mainland Naples.  It remains a great place to enjoy a respite from a hectic world. 

While it lies well offshore, it remains part of metropolitan Naples.  A relatively small place, it only occupies an area of 1.6 square miles.  It is also rather hilly, which does not make for a leisurely

Our Destination Marina di Corricella

walk.  If my thinking is correct, with about 10,500 full-time residents, it has a rather sparse distribution of people.  Most of the population is concentrated around the picturesque port of Marina di Corricella.  Even here, you will still not experience the shoulder-to-shoulder congestion found in the nearby port towns of Amalfi or Positano.  This is especially the case when cruise ships spawn their tenders and discharge thousands of tourists, reminiscent of being invaded by a bigger city, a much bigger city.  This small hidden port, really a fishing haven full of colorful craft bobbing at anchor, lies on the opposite side of the island from Marina Grande, where ferries come and go to service the island. 

Slightly faded buildings painted  a 

Arrival Port of Marina Grande

rainbow of colors watch over the waterfront in greeting.  They are not from some theme park fantasy or part of a cinematic backlot.  Palazzo Montefusco, located right in front of the landing pier and once the summer residence of the King of Naples, stands out.  Despite this royal residence, the atmosphere of a fishing village remains.  Here at the island’s transportation and economic center, you can still purchase fish at its best, straight from the boats.  You will also find local craft shops as well as bars and restaurants much appreciated by those like us, fresh off the ferries and somewhat disoriented, who have chosen this island getaway.

If there is spectacle on hand mirroring its history, tinges of it remain in the pageant of everyday life.  We travel to places like Procida to appreciate these differences, reflected in everyday life and drawn from that realm where the past leads the present.  In this case, not living by the sea only adds to our amazement with the spectacle of color, animation, and the cacophony that soon engulfs us.  The rhythmic lapping sound of this sea is the same sound the Mycenaeans heard ages ago.  Now, for a few days, it will touch the shore for us, its new occupiers seeking to stimulate our senses through immersion in this historical setting.  Diverse and exotic in silent dialogue merge with contemporary and mundane to offer a unique experience that offsets the routines of our everyday lives.  Gone for a while are the paths we habitually follow, replaced at every turn by routes we’ve no idea where they might take us.

The coming and going of Marina Grande is noisy in comparison to our destination, laid-back Marina di Corricella.  We could walk to Marina di Corricella from the ferry port, but it is uphill most of the way.  The island’s rising backbone, which separates the two ports, can make for a workout.  You can get closer to Marina Coricella by taking the C2 bus from Marina Grande.  Ten minutes later, get off at Piazza dei Martiri (Square of the Martyrs) located at the top of Via San Rocco.  This small square is named for the twelve inhabitants of Procida beheaded during the Neapolitan revolution of

Piazza dei Martiri & Santa Maria delle Grazie Overlooking Marina di Corricella

1799.^[3]  A nearby taxi stand offers an attractive alternative and usually comes with the added benefit of free advice.  This short ride, however, like the bus, will not

Arrived at Marina di Corricella

deposit you precisely on the Marina di Corricella wharf.  Maria Elena and I have made this trip a few times.  So far, the closest we have come to where the water laps the waterfront is the entrance to the gleaming yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie Incoronata.

Marina di Corricella served as the location for a scene in the seductive movie, The Talented Mr. Ripley, starring Matt Damon, Jude Law, and Gwyneth Paltrow.^[4]  A sign by the church points this out.  The church’s presence may serve as a subtle suggestion to say a prayer before you make the descent to the port along Discesa Graziella, a meandering offshoot flight of

Seaside at Marina Corricella

stairs along Via San Rocco.  If on first thought the stairs don’t look too bad, keep in mind that gravity works just the opposite when the time arrives to leave, suitcases and all.  Once arrived, a look back up from the stone-paved wharf reveals a myriad of pastel-colored houses arranged in a haphazard, near-vertical warren linked by a zig-zag of staircase streets.

Along the wharf, the umbrella-shaded tables of charming small cafes and restaurants offer beautiful southern views across a breakwater toward the Sorrento Peninsula and Capri.  Beware, this is

Charming Wharf Restaurants

not a Jimmy Buffet Margaritaville sort of place, not yet at least.  But it is gradually approaching its metaverse of counterparts with Aperol Spritzes readily available to the accompaniment of Elisa or, for those with a more operatic ear, Pavorotti.  You will find your preferred refreshment and venue somewhere.  Indeed, one evening on the wharf, to our surprise, we were entertained by a vocalist to the accompaniment of a grand piano … just what Maria Elena enjoys.

A Self-Serving Selfie

If you prefer a back-and-forth day trip instead of staying over, Procida is close enough to Naples to easily come and go.  We’d visited Procida years ago and promised to stay when we returned, which is exactly what we did recently.  Unfortunately, it was August which in just about any language means hot, really hot.  Thankfully, our choice, Casetta Giulia (Julia House), located at the port of Corricella, had aria condizionata (air conditioning) and proved to be a cool gem. 

Chiaro de Luna's Staff

But for a 30-step climb to our studio apartment in a cliffside warren of rooms, the location overlooking this most picturesque place on the island was perfect.  From our terrace, we looked out over the port each day and then went out and touched it. 

Heaps of nets along the stone pier that runs the harbor’s length, bobbing boats moored to stout wharf bollards, and coils of rope coarse to the touch from their frequent use, attest to the port’s contribution to a fishing economy.  Add a colorful flotilla of modest fishing boats, one

Our Apartment (circled)

even named ‘Paolo’ lashed to a buoy, and I felt right at home.  While far from an exact comparison, I’d liken this wharf to that of nearby Ischia Porto on neighboring Ischia. There, restaurants arc around one side of the circular harbor while commercial activity takes up the rest.  In Procida’s case, geography imposed the need for two ports, Marina di Corricella to one side of the island and, with its primarily commercial nature, Marina Grande, on the opposite side.  Restaurants, both glamorous and more sublime, lace the once cliff wall of port Corricella.  

Inside Our Studio Apartment

They span the length of the wharf burrowed into the bluff, while others extend out from vividly colored building facades bordering the cliff face. 

Each day and each night, we walked along the harbor.  Our evenings would begin with a promenade to Blue Bar at the far end of the pier for the cultural ritual of a pre-meal drink, the aperitivo.  

View Toward Locanda del Positino 
With Its Famous Bicycle

Doing so got us down the pier with intermittent stops to chat and observe the nightlife vibe.  Our return stroll concluded with dinner at Locanda del Postino.  La Locanda del Postino was but one of our ‘too many favorites.’  I liked everything about it, from the inside bar, the daytime shelter of its umbrellas on the wharf, and their attractively plated yummy presentations.  Adding to its reputation is the fact that it was featured in the movie Il Postino – a celebrated 1994 film that showcased Procida through the eyes of a postman, Mario Ruoppolo.  Its famous prop is the 

Wharf Nightlife

bicycle that shy Mario rode to make his deliveries.  Not widely known, Mario, played by Massimo Troisi, was severely ill during its filming.  He had postponed heart surgery so it could be completed.  Unfortunately, twelve hours after the filming concluded, he died of a heart attack.^[5]  An evening could also include a brief cruise across the bay to Ristorante La Conchiglia da Tonino.  The enjoyment there includes a panorama of Marina di Corricella with Vesuvius off in the background, followed by a fantastic bounty of seafood and pasta.  On the return ride, you may notice the boat settled just a little deeper in the water.  Take this trip earlier in the day for La Conchiglia is situated on Spiaggia della Chiaia (Chiaia Beach), one of Procida’s most beautiful beaches known for its dark sand and crystal-clear water.  

With much to offer, Procida recently gained worldwide attention when it beat out nine competitors for the honor of being crowned Italy’s “Capital of Culture for 2022.” 

Maria Elena at Aparitivo Time  
at the Blu Bar

This feat was particularly noteworthy because, in garnering the title, it became the first island ever to be granted the honor.  Cultural events involving 350 artists from 45 countries included art exhibitions, festivals, and live performances spread over ten months of the year.  The lengthy duration was intended to encourage responsible travel and circumvent a sudden mass influx of visitors.  Hardly known outside of Italy, National Geographic Magazine included Procida in its worldwide list of “25 Amazing Journeys for 2022.” ^[6]

My rendering of Procida can’t replace a visit there.  This mishmash of stairs, caves, arches, patios, domes, windows, and loggias awash in history is one of the most amazing places you’re ever likely to visit.  Like all of Italy, all the ancient glory that was once Rome, even on a little island like Procida, we can read about it at home one page at a time and later put the book aside on the nightstand.  But here, beyond the myth we may have made of it, we can put our hands on what remains of reality. 

A Peaceful day Concludes with a
Romantic Evening

With the spotlight of the cultural award now moved elsewhere, Procida is once again relaxed and hopefully returned to its quiet seclusion as a great place to enjoy a peaceful, romantic day or two, again with the bonus of a short ferry ride.  I can promise you this: fishermen continue to mend their nets, restaurants open and close their sun umbrellas each day, boats will come and go while children play by the sea as it splashes ashore, and life quietly moves along.  Here is a tip – get there soon before it all changes.

From That Rogue Tourist,
Paolo

 

[1] Vulture Region, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vulture_(region)

[2] Procida, Province of Napoli, Campania, https://www.italyheritage.com/regions/campania/napoli/procida.htm#:~:text=Its%20history%20is%20very%20ancient,resort%20for%20the%20patrician%20class.

[3] Procida, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Procida

   [4] The Talented Mr. Ripley, https://www.movie-locations.com/movies/t/Talented-Mr-Ripley.php

   [5] Il Postino: The Postman, https:\\en.wikipdeia.org/wiki/Il_Postino: The_Postman

  [6] Best in the World 2022, https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/article/best-of-the-world-2022