Barium Bound

 Barium Bound                                               

Giuseppe 'Peppino' Rosania's Calessino Taxi

The day following a ride through the Borgo aboard Peppino’s ape, “Calessino,” we departed Calitri once again.  It’s always a treat to be driven through the Borgo’s narrow lanes, especially for first-timers like Len and JoAnn.  The route is so narrow at times that, as Peppe skillfully navigates, all aboard are careful to keep their fingers inside.  In any case, it served as a shakedown ride for the next day I’d be driving.  It wasn’t that we had itchy feet to move on; not at all.  This next excursion had been thoroughly planned by JoAnn and Maria Elena for months.  However, the “itch theory” was somewhat supported by the fact that it had been only six days since our return from Ischia. (see Tutt’Appost IV) allowing just enough time to rest, recover, and refresh our clothing.  That plus, by then, we had cycled through our favorite local eateries like Tre Rose, The Golden Mill, and nearby L’Antica Grotta. 

Our last stop in town was at Leonardo’s ESSO station to fill up with fuel.  Little Bianca is a hybrid
Fiat that combines gasoline with GPL, the Italian acronym for Gas di Petrolio Liquefatto, which is

similar to the propane we use in backyard barbecues.  From there, to add a touch of variety to this outing, we headed east from our Calitri pied-à-terre.  About 45 minutes later, we reached Candela and joined the A16 Autostrada, with the Adriatic Sea coastline straight ahead of us.  Just shy of the sea, we would turn south and follow the coastal highway to our destination: Bari, an ancient commercial port city focused on eastern trade known as Barium in antiquity. 

Google Maps got us to the La Baia Best Western Hotel in Palese, a northern suburb of Bari close to the airport.  By this time, we also needed refueling.  Since it was still too early to check in, we dropped off our luggage and, on

Seaside Lo Scglio Ristorante

recommendation, drove to Lo Scoglio for lunch, a nearby seafood restaurant by the shore.  Upon entering, the presence of five or six waiters adorned in vests and bow ties was a clear sign that Lo Scoglio was an exceptional restaurant, one that had not retreated to the advance of fast food.  It wasn’t long before the four of us were enjoying a chilled bottle of white wine, later followed by a flaky Napolean-like pastry.  In between, we enjoyed plates of calamari, mussels, octopus salad, and a mixed assortment of fish.  While we’d been the first to arrive, the

Inside the Lo Scoglio

restaurant was filled to capacity by the time we left.

Following check-in, we got directions to the train station.  It was a few short blocks away and easy to find, considering we followed a gaggle of young women there, maybe ten all told, apparently on a girl’s night out.  Gathered at a station’s ticket (biglietto) machine, we observed their button-mashing process but when our turn arrived, so had the train.  The four of us were just too slow to repeat the process, let alone get them validated in the stamping machine before boarding.  Thankfully, the conductor, with a wave and shouting Avante, signaled us to board regardless of whether we had tickets, stamped or not.  Paraphrasing a famous line from the 1947 hit starring Humphrey Bogart, The Treasure of the Sierra Madre, “

A Bountiful Seafood Assortment

We Didn’t Need No Stink’en Badges Tickets!” we were on our way.  

Our ticketless ‘posse’ was headed downtown, our immediate destination, Stazione di Bari Centrale, the modern heart of the city and gateway to excellent shopping, dining, and the historic narrow street charm of Bari Vecchia (Old Town).  We had all of this in mind as we exited the station into the amazing setting of Piazza Aldo Moro, a square dedicated to a former prime minister of Italy.  As a tribute to the region’s history, this fountain

Train Ticket Machine

bears the coats of arms of the six Apulian provinces.

We followed pedestrian-only avenues through the Giardini di Piazza Umberto I, a palm-lined park, toward the bustling Corso Cavour.  Beneath our feet lay historic ground with strong Greek influences before the Roman era began in the 3rd century BC.  Bari has come a long way since.  It once owned a tough reputation on par with rough and tumble Naples, but as its sister city on the opposite coast has cleaned up its act, so has Bari.  Until 20 years ago, Old Bari was known as “mugging-town, a forbidden zone run by criminal clans.  While not yet of the grandeur of Paris’ Champs-Élysées, the streets, lined with cafes, their outside tables crowded with patrons, gave off a similar charm.  We were tempted many times to join them, and though we had plenty of time,

Moro Piazza Fountain Before the
Bari Central Train Station

we already had a destination in mind.  Along the way, of course, we shopped.  A purse comes to mind, along with soccer team T-shirts and pennants, in addition to a sun hat. 

Arriving at Cavour, we followed it northward in a light rain toward the historic Teatro Petruzzelli, the city's opera and ballet theater.  From this landmark, we turned onto Via Salvatore Cognetti and made our way toward the lungomare, a promenade on the sea, until we arrived for our dinner reservation at Il Gusto Le 2 Aquile, recommended by friends who’d recently visited.

When we arrived, a waiter directed us to a table outside next to the busy street.  I immediately objected, reiterating our reservation, and asked for an inside table, especially given the rain.  I suspect

Walking Inviting Bari

Italians prefer to avoid conflict, a hunch that proved accurate when, after a brief conversation with someone inside, we were shown to a table inside.  I crossed my fingers, hoping the food would make up for the rocky start. 

Of the hundreds of restaurants in Bari, there was a particular reason that drew me to this one.  One of the many dishes served at Il Gusto Le 2 Aquile is Spaghetti All'Assassina or ‘Killer’s Pasta.’  It is a dish we’d heard of and even made in the US with my daughter but never eaten at its birthplace, here in Puglia.  In this region of Italy, pasta has a regal reputation, far eclipsing anything Chef Boyardee could have envisioned after he departed Ellis Island.  The cuisine here is astonishingly rich, incredibly varied, intensely regionalized, and revered by locals with a fervor that borders on religious zeal.

Spaghetti All'Assassina made its public debut by chance sometime toward the end of the 1960s in Bari.  As for its essentials, not to be ignored, is the use of an iron pan or skillet for better heat conduction and wide enough to accommodate a handful of dry spaghetti of box length lying flush on

The White Tablecloth Decor
of Il Gusto Le 2 Aquile

the bottom without the need to snap it to fit.  According to this dish’s growing lore, the oiled, burnt frying pan is never washed.  Instead, to preserve its seasoning, it is cleaned with newspaper so that it stays greasy.  A little printer’s ink shouldn’t bother anyone, right?  Another enormous distinction between ordinary spaghetti preparation and this dish is that instead of boiling the spaghetti, it is cooked directly in the pan by consistently adding a watery tomato broth to it each time the liquid is absorbed.  This is the difference; here, the spaghetti is rehydrated not with water but with the ragu.  All this is minor, however.  With proper pan in hand and mindful of the broth technique, it is also of utmost importance that the result be burnt, crispy, and spicy.  I’m serious.  Thinking “outside the box” as they say, the use of pasta right out of the box confirms that despite what many may believe, spaghetti all'assassina wasn't created as a way to use leftover pasta as is often the case with a makeshift pasta frittata where a crispy

Nicely Burnt Spaghetti all'Asssassina

crunch can also be expected.  How is that for a novel, diabolical killer dish? 

 It wasn’t long before we had all ordered and began to chat with a couple at a neighboring table.  I’ll skip over what we chatted about and won't describe the other dishes we eagerly awaited, for I found myself perseverating on the Assassin Pasta I’d ordered.  Instead, I was eager to observe the techniques employed in this Holy Grail of Assassin Pasta going on just beyond the swinging kitchen doors.  To my surprise, when I asked permission from the manager, I was allowed a peek at their process and quickly excused myself from the conversation with the Portuguese swimsuit designer and her Vodaphone lawyer.

The chef greeted me warmly.  In the minutes I

Par-Boiling the Pasta

had, I observed him violate the first cardinal rule toward the perfection of Assassin Pasta as he parboiled the spaghetti for a minute or two.  Could he be forgiven?  In a restaurant, maybe it is necessary because it saves time. Nevertheless, strike one, he used water!  Following this, he removed the now limp strands and placed them in an aluminum, possibly stainless steel pan, now violating who knows how many faux pas.  Knowing too much and seeing too much, I left.  How was it?  Discretion here is the better option, but it was not on par with what my daughter attempted on her first try.

Though we enjoyed wine with our meal, in keeping with the rocky reception and the pasta, I probably should have ordered something on the rocks.  So there you have it.  With the inclement weather, the manager ordered a taxi, and it arrived just as we paid the bill.  All that remained as we departed was to return for another go somewhere else; the next time, we’ll try Il Gusto, also highly recommended, in the Bari Murat district.  This ‘golden fleece’ of a pasta treasure lies somewhere out there, yet to be discovered.

The next morning, we rode the train into downtown Bari once again, this time fortunately absent any ticket problems.  Our focus was on the historic heart of the city, Vecchia Bari (Old Town Bari). 

Typical Old Town, This
One With a Corner Shrine

This charming district is located on a narrow triangular peninsula between the Adriatic Sea and the modern part of the city.  Two sides of the triangle abut the sea.  The other reaches the Murat district of this capital city that we passed through the day before.  There are many ways to get there.  We chose an expedient route to enter the historic district, following Via Sparano da Bari straight from Piazza Aldo Moro and the Centrale Train Station.  

The Old Town is just that, old, with roots extending back more than 2,000 years.  The Old Town is a living, breathing part of Bari, with locals carrying on daily activities like shopping in street markets, playing Scopa, the Italian card game, in the squares, and chatting in the streets, totally oblivious of those trying to get by.  It features narrow winding streets, alleys, tunnels, hidden corners, balconies, and popular squares like Piazza del Ferrarese and Piazza Mercantile.  These two lively squares are connected and serve as hubs of activity in the Old Town.  Piazza del Ferrarese, featuring colorful buildings and outdoor cafes, is a charming square and an excellent stop for lunch while enjoying the view of the nearby sea.  Adjacent Piazza Mercantile is a historic square surrounded by historical buildings related to centuries of shipping and commerce.

Wandering this ancient maze is one of the best ways to experience Bari Vecchia. It quickly captivates you, transports you back in time, and offers charming glimpses into its rich cultural and architectural heritage.  Its alleys are lined with traditional

Maria Elena Maneuvers Along
'Pasta Alley'

white-washed houses, small shops, and local eateries where you can sample authentic Bari cuisine, like orecchiette pasta.  These ear-shaped pasta are found everywhere, with so many nonne (grandmothers) sitting outside offering them for sale that one area is even called Pasta Alley.  One in particular, Nona Maria, has grown so famous that curious visitors often block the passageway by her booth, where she sells her ‘little ears.’  Her hospitality has since expanded to an adjacent B&B.  

We also visited the Basilica di San Nicola, a Romanesque church that is one of Bari's most important landmarks.  It houses the relics of St. Nicholas, a 4th-century bishop who lived in the Roman era and is the patron saint of Bari, as well as many other cities around the world.  His fame is known globally today, and it is worth mentioning how this came to be. 

In 1087, his remains were brought to Bari from what is today Turkey.  With his arrival in Italy, the tradition of gift-giving during Christmas caught on.  This was because Nicholas adhered to Christ’s admonition, “Sell all, give to the poor and follow me,” which he followed by anonymously giving to the poor.  Later, Saint Nicholas was so loved by the Dutch that when they settled in New York City, they brought their patron saint, Saint Nicholas, with them.  Mimicking the Bible, which tells of a judgment day, Christmas evolved to include a “mini judgment day” serving as a check-up on children’s behavior.  

During the Protestant Reformation, the tradition of Christmas gift-giving was attributed to the Christ Child or Christkindl, which over the years grew to be pronounced Chris Kringle.  Gift-giving, in association with Saint Nicholas to this point, took place on 6 December.  When the Reformation dissolved Saint Days, the tradition moved to December 25th.  Nicholas, too, transformed over time into the familiar figure we know today, depicted in a Flemish outfit with baggy trousers, a leather belt, boots, and a pipe.  Like the foretold actual judgment day when people’s lives are examined, a naughty and nice children’s book evolved.  As a saint, Nicholas would participate in a Last Judgment and in this

A Now Grassy Moat to the Side of 
Castello Normanno-Svevo

mini-judgment as well.  Heaven became the North Pole, where reindeer, including Rudolph, were plentiful, and angels were transformed into elves.  This legend was later immortalized in 1823 by Clement Moore in his poem The Night Before Christmas, which describes Kris Kringle’s yearly return.  Both Kris Kringle and Saint Nicholas are named for this legendary figure, Santa Claus.

From the Basilica, we next strolled along Via Marinai and Martinez until we reached the limits of the Old Town overlooking Corso Antonio De Tullio.  By this point, we’d grown tired and looked for a taxi back to our hotel.  We walked along Corso Antonio De Tullio until we neared Castello Normanno-Svevo (Norman-Swabian Castle), but we remained unsuccessful in finding one.  The castle, built in 1132, has since changed hands many times and witnessed many historic events.  Interestingly, in 1221,

Outside of Al Pescatore Ristorante
Hoping for a Cab

Frederick II, the Holy Roman Emperor, among other titles, met St. Francis of Assisi in this very castle.  According to tradition, Frederick had a courtesan sent to Francis's room while he watched through a peephole to see what would happen.  When Francis sent the woman away, Frederick was impressed with his principles, and the two spent the rest of the night in conversation.¹  This historic footnote may have been prophetic, for since then, the area has become a major nightlife district.  We never went inside.  Rather, we crossed through a parking lot toward the Al Pescatore (To the Fisherman) restaurant, located across the street from the castle, just a stone's throw from the sea.

Unfortunately, we weren’t there to eat but rather to seek help with getting a taxi.  As we approached, we were fortunate to meet the manager who was conveniently outside on a break.  In typical Italian fashion, he went out of his way to help us.  While he made numerous calls to different taxi services, we had time to pore over the menu.  The Al Pescatore seafood tradition includes fish dishes like mussels, clams, grilled fish, seafood carpaccio, mixed tartare, massive raw seafood platters, caviar, and oysters, each prepared and served with the kind of quality that would make Poseidon himself give a nod of approval.  If the manager’s selfless help, with nothing expected in return, is any indication of their service, we’re definitely planning a return trip for dinner when we return to Bari — though that will have to wait as our time in Bari was at an end.  In the morning, our journey would take us eastward to a

Next Month

new destination: the fifth-largest island in the Mediterranean.  Stay tuned to see where we land next… hopefully with better luck with the taxis!

 

From That Rogue Tourist,

Paolo

 

1.  Castello Normanno-Svevo, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castello_Normanno-Svevo_(Bari)